Vogue 1387: Classic White Shirt!

Oh how I wish I could tell you that this shirt was an enjoyable make! Unfortunately, it was not. I struggled for a whole day to make this as neatly and precisely as I could. The downside to making a classic white shirt is that any sewing or construction fault is quite visible. Despite the effort and time that went in to this shirt, which normally makes me hate a garment, I LOVE this and it looks AWESOME!

Before I get into the nitty gritty of this shirt, I’ll share some photos. All of these had to be darkened significantly to show detail. I normally struggle to photograph black garments and it appears photographing white is equally difficult.

I made a straight size 10, my usual Vogue size, and only made a few changes to the pattern. The first was that I lopped about 2 or 3 inches from the hem of the shirt. This meant that I messed with the shirt construction order as you are asked to hem the shirt before joining the sides or even the shoulders. As I am not as tall as a model, this order doesn’t work for me. So when I was able to sew the side seams I only sewed and finished a few inches below the armpit and left the hems and sides to finish once the shirt was complete.

The other major change was to the front yoke. It’s hard to see in any photo of this shirt and even the line drawing, but below the curved yoke there is a bias strip insert, which is attached between the front tucks and the yoke. What a nightmare it was to figure that out!! I scratched my head for well over an hour, trying to decipher the pattern instructions to get this. I read and re read the instructions but it just didn’t make sense. When I finally figured out how it went, I hated that it didn’t look neat enough. My fabric is sheer and white so everything shows!

To remedy this and ensure a super crisp finished, I removed the bias strip and front yoke, and instead cut two yoke facings and used them for both the front yoke and facing. Does that make sense?? I hope so.

If I ever make this shirt again, I will cut two yoke facings, rather than use the bias strip insert. I don’t think the design needs an additional seam line above the pleats. There’s enough going on with this design that it’s not needed.

I also sewed tower plackets for the first time ever and I’m really pleased with the finish.

The collar and front button band went on without a hitch and I followed the instructions, using snaps sewn with a decorative cross showing and love the finish.

I was worried about the amount of ease built into the pattern, but I’m glad that I stuck with my standard size 10. The shoulders fit perfectly and the neckline sits very flat. The only fitting issue that I’ll fix next time is to shorten the sleeves a little.

Once I’d finished this shirt, I didn’t think that I’d ever make this pattern again, but now I’ve worn it out I think I’m changing my mind. I have some Liberty Ornithology that I have lying around in my stash and you can never have enough Liberty shirts right?

Pattern: Vogue 1387 inc part shipping:  $11.50
Fabric: 2 m silk cotton voile from The Fabric Store on sale: $26.40
Thread and interfacing from stash
Snaps from Nan’s stash
Total: $37.90

  • Gorgeous!!! I have yet to make this up. I love it in white.

  • This turned out soooooo beautifully! I remember you showing us the swatch at Tessuti on the meetup day. I think I might have to try this pattern, it's so different to any other button up I've made, the design features are really nice. Oh, and hate you for beating me to the classic white shirt make, mine is way down on my list at this point.

  • You beat me to the classic white shirt too.
    Cool fabric and style choice. Make another one!!!

  • I was thinking about a race! ha ha! But I can be overly competitive and would have sewn something overnight with no sleep just to win. 🙂 You should totally make one of these, but maybe without the bias insert.

  • Thanks Maria, it took a while, but it was worth it.

  • Thanks! 🙂

  • A classic white shirt is such a wardrobe staple and I love your new one. Great pattern and fabric match 🙂

  • Oh, how encouraging and discouraging. I love your shirt, I have this pattern and a fabric picked out and I've been trying to get up the energy to tackle it. Your shirt is absolutely gorgeous but the sewing experience sounds like everything I hate and I would need to figure out the shortening, too. Thanks for the trailblazing, I'll keep your suggestions in mind and try to focus on the end result. So pretty and classic without being the same old thing.

  • I've had this on my to sew list for ages so glad to hear your comments. They will all come in very handy! ! Ornithology is such a favorite of mine and would look lovely made up into this pattern. Never enough Liberty!

  • Oh yay! I'm so glad to see this pattern and read about your experience. I've been looking at this pattern for a while now. The shirt is so pretty! It looks fabulous on you! Well done for making a white shirt too. Such a make has been on my list for eons but I'm always succumbing to more alluring printed/patterned/coloured projects.

  • Lovely blouse! I'm glad to hear it wasn't just me being dense with those instructions! I got stuck at the "binding" section and my top is still sitting half-finished on my sewing table. Yours looks so great, you've inspired me to finish mine 🙂

  • I am so glad to see this sewn up, that pattern caught my eye and now I am certain to buy it. I think in short sleeves it would be nice also for summer. very pretty.

  • Your shirt looks so smart and fresh. How annoying that the bias insert instructions are less than stellar. The yokes and gather detail look very pretty, and a Liberty version sounds lovely.

  • Snap….it must be white shirt season! I have this pattern and I think it just bumped up my list. It looks lovely made up. I really like the fabric you have paired it with.

  • Awesome! I look forward to seeing it!

  • I agree, short sleeves would be great for you in the coming months. Not so much me 🙁

  • Less than stellar is an understatement. I'm not often stumped by instructions, but was very much with these.

  • I'm also glad I'm not the only one! I think I thought it was binding for the seam, not an insert which didn't help me with the instructions. I think you should toss the inset if it's less than ideal and cut two facings – much easier!

  • I am almost always swayed by bright, busy, colourful prints – I'm actually quite surprised this has only been sitting around waiting to sew for just over a month.

  • I"m so glad you ended up liking this, because it's such a gorgeous pattern! Like you said, perfect fit through the shoulders. I think everyone needs a white shirt in their wardrobe… it looks so polished and classic! Love it 🙂