Two Larks and a Silk Scarf

Anyone would think that I’ve been sewing up a storm lately, but alas, these are mostly just catch up posts – left over from our last school holidays.

One of my recent makes though, is this black ponte Lark tee. As with all Grainline patterns, I am quite happy with the design. I did find that a little more width across the shoulders would be good, but I doubt its a drafting issue, its more likely that my fabric was more stable than a normal tee shirt knit. I love the more structured look of this tee. The black ponte was from Tessuti, a birthday gift from my friend (blogless) Rachel.

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To achieve a boxier look, I cut the body of the tee straight from the underarm to the hem, not along the waist shaping.

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As you can see from these photos, I have recently joined team culottes and I’m quite surprised to be there. I’m not terribly keen on watching fashion and don’t shop often, so didn’t realise that they had crept into mainstream shops.

To tell you the truth, they have been quite a contentious wardrobe addition. My husband and many friends have voiced their disapproval (I have quite a vocal group of friends), but I love them. The are super stretchy and easy to wear at school. Now, don’t scroll back on my blog. You haven’t missed an earlier post about them. You see, I didn’t make them! I found myself shopping with my mum during the holidays for my birthday and saw them at Uniqlo. Originally I thought I’d try them on to see if they were my style – you know testing a look before sewing them. Obviously, one of the most disspointing things about sewing is trying to sew a new style, putting in hours of effort in fitting and finish, only to find that it just doesn’t suit you – ack! Such a pain!

So after trying them on and realising they weren’t that expensive, I just couldn’t justify saying ‘no’. Sometimes it’s just not cost effective to make an item. I would have had to purchase fabric and pattern, and then there’s the time. Feel free to add to the ‘yay’ or ‘nay’ culottes argument in the comments section 🙂

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I have also recently made a silk scarf from a really lush silk CDC from Tessuti. Scarves have become my go to accessory for work. While all those chunky necklaces look great, I find that they often knock my kindy kids on the head when I mark their work or help them. Worse, I’ve even caught a kiddo’s pair of glasses with my necklace as I was rushing around to help.

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The silk is 140cm wide and I purchased half a meter. When I got home, I realised that I only need about 30cm for a scarf, so I have enough left over (with a slight over measure) to make a gift for someone. Now I know many people hand turn the hems of their silk scarves, but I just ironed a rolled hem and sewed with my machine. I really love the colours of this scarf and can’t wait to make more for Winter.

While I’m catching up on finished items, I also made a striped Lark during the holidays with some ponte from The Remnant Warehouse.

IMG_5429This time I sewed the boat neck version with 3/4 sleeves and again, straighted the waist to achieve a boxier look.

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I love how versatile this tee is – perfect to wear with cullottes 🙂  but also great for dressing down on a cooler soccer morning with the kids.

 

Vogue 1387: A Replacement Classic White Shirt

My first classic white Vogue 1387 is no longer white. I try my hardest with washing clothes, sorting and all that stuff, but things don’t stay as I would like them too. I’m just crappy at laundry, but I guess we all have to be crappy at something 😉

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This crisp white cotton sateen was a remnant that I picked up from Tessuti about a year ago. I  By sateen, I mean the real stuff, not the thick stretchy stuff, but light weight, soft fabric with a lovely sheen. I recollect purchasing this fabric with the intention of making another white shirt – it just took much longer than I expected to get there.

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I don’t have much to add to my previous two posts about this pattern, but it is a really nicely fitting, well drafted pattern. I apologise for the glowing photos, but that’s what you get sometimes.

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My main modification to the pattern was omitting the snaps on the button band and instead, using some unique rectangle shell buttons that I purchased last year from Pitt Trading. I don’t often stash buttons, but for some reason just couldn’t help myself when I saw these. I feel better now that they have been used.

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As this fabric is much more substantial than my original fabric, I also reduced the depth of the pleats which are formed along the front yoke. This was done in my usual hodge podge manner, folding the pattern before cutting my fabric to reduce some volume then free hand pleating the shirt front to fit the yoke – very technical. I felt this was a necessary modification due to the lack of drape with this fabric, I didn’t want the tucks to puff out.

I’m really pleased with this shirt and I’m hopeful it will last longer than the original. Unfortunately I am yet to wear it – hopefully soon though. 


Moji Pants

I really wanted these pants to be awesome, but they are not.

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The Moji pants were going to be my next casual denim chambray pants to love. I have previously made the Hudson pants in chambray and while I adore them, they are just ever so slightly too trim around my calves (my bad from not sizing up enough from knit to woven fabric). I should have just re made them, but instead I ventured into Moji-land and was left quite saddened by the experience 🙁

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I didn’t toile this pattern, I foolishly trusted that some looser fitting, woven trousers would just work or at least be modifiable during sewing to fit. Unfortunately these pants are not drafted with enough ease at all. Which of course,  I found out after they were almost finished.

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As you can see here, my hip measurement indicates a size 4, but when you look at the finished garment measurement, there is only 3/4 inch of ease. If you were to make this garment out of the suggested lightweight fabric like rayon or polyester, I dare say you would have a severe wardrobe malfunction the second you sat down. I should also note that I found the sizing so off that I also couldn’t get my feet into these trousers as the ankle size was too small as drafted.

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Thankfully, after the little hissy fit I threw when I realised these wouldn’t fit, I realised I could resurrect them by sewing a 2 inch panel along the side seam of the trousers from hip to ankle. You can see the panel in this photo. It was horribly bright when I took these photos, so please excuse my glowing white tee.

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While this modification worked it isn’t ideal. As this chambray is lightweight, I also mock flat felled all the seams to add strength.

Anyway, I guess this is how the cookie crumbles sometimes. At least the trousers are now wearable despite what I consider to be a huge drafting error. I’m not sure I’ll be sewing any more Colette patterns for a while.




 

Aeolian Tee Shirt

 

Blogging is not coming easy these days. I am squeezing in a little sewing, but am finding myself quite stretched in the evenings, which is my normal blog writing time. It’s that pesky job getting in the way again! This is quite a shame because I have such a backlog of items to document here.

The Aeolian tee was one of those patterns that I had wanted to make for a while. I think Anna’s plan to keep making them until I purchased the pattern myself finally worked. Well done Anna 🙂

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I purchased this Liberty specifically to make this pattern. Naturally I muslined it first and found that I only needed to pinch a little excess out of the neck along the seam line. Once I finished this top, I found those sleeves just a little too generous for my frame, so I again took off the excess from the sleeve edge to the tee hem. I guess I’ve lost some of the pattern’s appeal, but it is more comfortable for me to wear like this.

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I didn’t use the facing piece drafted, but instead bias bound the neckline and added side vents for a little interest.IMG_5425

I’m quite pleased with this woven tee. It’s a little different and the fabric is just gorgeous.

A short post today and likely a few short posts in the future until I can catch up.

Happy hump day for tomorrow!