My previous two pairs of woven Hudson pants have been such a hit, I needed to make another.
This time I used a Spotlight stretch sateen that had been maturing in my stash for a couple of years. I managed to squeeze these out of just 1m – yay! This fabric works wonderfully for woven Hudsons. I’m not sure if you’ve noticed, but I think the sateen at Spotlight has become lighter in recent years. I’ve tried to make more tailored trousers with this fabric, but my most recent pair have failed somewhat due to the lightness of the fabric. These ones however, are still going strong and I think it has to do with the weight of the fabric. Anyway, the Spotty sateen, while not suited to overly tailored designs, is perfect for these looser style trousers, which is good to know as there are some really great stretch sateen prints at Spotlight these days.
Back to the pattern and my modifications. Kelli has provided great instructions to convert the Hudsons from a stretch fabric to a woven fabric, and I do mostly follow these. I widen the leg below the knee and lengthen the trousers to accommodate the ankle elastic. I also raise the waist of the pant by about an inch, raising the pockets also, and use narrower elastic.
With regards to sizing, the Spotlight sateen is quite stretchy and I find that my regular knit pattern size works with this fabric as I like them to be more fitted.
As the sateen is a lighter fabric, I mock flat fell some of the seams for durability and to prevent the seam lines, especially the butt ones, from stretching and showing the often white base fabric. First I sew the leg inseam and mock flat fell, then the side seam, which I top stich/flat fell as far as my machine will go and tack. Finally I sew the crotch curve and top stich/flat fell all the way around.
I’m really pleased with these trousers. They are super comfortable and I’m sure they will get a real work out once the weather cools down a little.