This dress isn’t quite Vogue 1344. While I love the shoulder pleats and cuffs from the pattern, I just couldn’t see that the crossed front would be practical in my day job. No kid wants to see that! Eww!
So I turned what should have been a simple, straight forward sew, into a bit of a sewing gamble. Not only did I significantly modify the front and fully change the lining with my superior drafting skills (AKA lying a pattern over fabric and guessing where to cut), but I also made this in a slinky viscose/poly knit, which is quite far from the recommended silk and light weight fabric suggestions.
I am quite confident sewing slinkier knits these days, but the heavier fabric proved quite challenging with the pleats as there is a terrible amount of bulk created by them. I trimmed the seams as close as I could to the seam line and then ironed a strip of fusible interfacing to them to help hold them flat.
To achieve a blouson finish to the bodice, I trimmed bodice lining a little shorter than the outer and attached the two with a little elastic to hold it evenly to my waist. I also added belt loops because I will always weat a belt with this dress.
As my fabric didn’t hold a crease, I sewed the pleats down a few inches from the shoulder and also tacked the cuffs down quite a bit. You can’t quite see them in the photos, but there are tiny bar tacks along the cuff to keep them in place. I think they look more like a design feature than a oversight on my part related to my fabric selection and possibly my choice not to interface the cuffs.
As with all of my knit dresses this is fully self lined including this skirt. I think this allows the dress to hang nicer while you wear it and it prevents the dress from sticking to your undies and showing any wobbles – again, no one wants to see that! This does add weight to a dress and makes it a little hotter to wear, which is something I keep in mind on stinking hot days, but for every other regular spring day, this dress will be great.
For a knit dress, this took quite a bit longer than usual for me to sew, but it was definitely worth it. Oh and the fabric was from Pitt Trading. It was an end of roll piece that wasn’t quite large enough for my planned Vogue 1225, so the owner gave it to me for a steal. With the pattern which was purchased on sale, this dress has cost me less than $15 which makes me love it even more!
Hope you have a great week!