Jacques

After quite a binge of trouser making in early 2013, I’m only now finding that I need more nice pants to wear to work. After making a number of Thurlow based trousers, I thought it about time I try a new pattern. 

While I really like the idea of the Republic Du Chiffon Jacques trousers, I’m not sure they are for me. Maybe I’m just a little too stuck on the skinny/slim trouser look.
I think my fabric choice, which isn’t as crisp as it should be, has also made these a rather ho hum make. I used a cheaper drapey poly twill fabric from The Remnant Warehouse. I think you need a crisp fabric to hold the pleat and the crease along the leg with this style of trousers.
When making this pattern, the biggest hurdle I stumbled upon was the sizing. After making a muslin, I found my size almost unwearable as there just wasn’t enough ease. As a rule, I size down almost all of my projects. However, after researching the pattern a little online, I found that you are supposed to size up when picking your size. To avoid re tracing the pattern, I just added a little along the side seams and a few other places to size them up to my size. Yes, it’s a little gung ho, but it mostly worked.
As you can see from these pictures, I modified the waist band significantly, adding a regular fly front rather than buttons (which are definitely not my style) and using my regular curved waist band, rather than the one drafted.
I was also not sure about the cuffed look, but think I’ll go back and loose a little length to add them back on again.
Look they aren’t that bad, but I don’t love them. Perhaps when we get a cooler day in Sydney I’ll try to wear them to work and see how I go. I think I may also try making them in a much crisper fabric, probably with a little stretch for comfort. 
See also

Basics

You know when you need to dash up to the shop to get milk first thing in the morning and the only thing you can find it an un ironed Archer? A crumpled up Alder? crushed Thurlows? Yes – it’s a wardrobe crisis!! You need more t-shirts!!

Sewing basics isn’t as much fun as sewing icing, but it is necessary evil. This basic tee was made with the Grainline scout tee pattern. I love the loose fit.

Even though this is a pattern for wovens, it quite easily translates to knits and just finishes more relaxed. The only change that I make to accommodate the knit fabric, is that I sew standard 5/8 inch seams, rather than the specified 1/2 inch.

The fabric was left over from this cardigan, which doesn’t get as much wear as it should. I think it’s because it’s a busy pattern and my tops are often busy. So busy and busy don’t go, right? Anyway, as I was working with a small, choppy piece of fabric, I didn’t have enough to cut the whole back piece in one, so added a contrast back yoke with the fabric running vertically. Design feature right?
While on basics, I’ve also recently sewn another Scout in grey knit with Liberty binding.
This Liberty isn’t a knit and it does not form to the shape of the neckline properly. So to fix, I ran a line of hat elastic inside the binding and pulled it in so that it sits on my skin properly. It’s not a technical fix that you’d read about in a sewing book, but it works.
Lastly, I finally made myself a Grainline hemlock. Nothing terribly spesh about this top, but I like it. I often wear my Liberty Archers to the beach to stop sunburn and made this to have a knit beach top that will look less crumpled after sitting on the sand while I swim.
It works. It’s good. Shame about the crappy photography. 
Fingers crossed I steal some time at the machine this weekend. TGIF!!

Another swishy dress

I love my confetti dress so much, that over the holidays I made another just like it.

Again I used a thin, drapey Spotlight poly knit. I found this print on the sale table for just a few dollars a meter. I don’t normally wear red, but I really love this dress.

This dress is fairly similar to my confetti dress and based mostly on Vogue 1351 with the front drafted as a regular sleeveless dress rather than with a cowl neck. With this version, instead of sewing a tie to the dress, this one is removable. I added belt loops to the side so I can wear a regular belt or the tie that I made in the same fabric.

This dress is fully self lined, so it is very swishy and doesn’t at all cling or show wobbles, which is always a risk with a knit dress. I was a little more successful at cutting the lining shorter than the dress outer, which gives a much nicer blousing look to the dress. I think this keeps it from looking too formal for school.

I hope you have a good week. It’s going to be cracker in my house.