Third shift dress this season – am I predictable or what? When I love a new style, I tend to make a bunch of the same thing right after each other. For example, my v-neck knit dress moments in February and March this year, which you can see here, here, here, here and here. Or my Thurlow trouser obsession from January 2013, which you can see here, here and here. Now, it’s shift dresses! How many more can I make?
I love how easy it is to wear a shift. I don’t feel too dressed up, and yet feel totally chic and comfortable. After sewing up two Vogue 1349s (here and here), I thought I’d give another shift pattern a chance.
The Dandelion dress was an interesting sew and I am very pleased with the results. I really like the seam lines of this dress and the pattern provides a more fitted shift dress, which I also like. As I used special Tessuti rayon and was worried about being able to ‘fit as I sew’, I made a muslin, which is rare in these parts of late. The muslin fit well, but I did have to make some mods, so am very glad I made one.
The pattern isn’t drafted with a lot ease (I think only 1/2 inch around the bust and waist) so I made a size 4. The muslin came out too tight around my waist. I remedied this by slashing the seam line on the front, under the bust, and added just over a cm grading down to nothing at the hips. Not too hard and totally expected given my lack of waist post children.
My other fitting modifications included, sewing a deeper seam on the shoulders to raise the entire dress – bust darts, armscye and side panels – which appeared to be sitting too low. I scooped out the front neck a little to accommodate this change and removed a small amount of flare from the skirt by folding a small 1cm tuck in the side panels. I added piping to the yoke for a bit of interest and drafted a neck and arm facing as I wanted a clean finish around the top of the dress.
It sounds like a lot of changes, but nothing was major. The only other change that I wish I would have made would have been to fold out a little from the front yoke as I seem to have a little excess fabric there, or not enough body to fill it.
The fabric I used is quite sheer, but rather than underline the dress and add bulk, which isn’t nice in hot, muggy Sydney weather, I plan to wear a slip with it.
I wore this today and received a number of compliments, so I definitely think it’s a winner.
Pattern: Dandelion Dress by Disparate Disciplines = $10.20
Fabric: 2m Japanese embroidered rayon from Tessuti = $58