Today we have a toile or muslin of a new dress. I’m not sure which name to call it, but this is it – glamorous huh??
It’s a vintage pattern from 1981. Simplicity 9863, which says on the front it’s “Jonathan Hitchcock for Reuben Thomas”. I’ve never heard of these designers, but I wasn’t that old in 1981 – he he! I never thought I’d ever make anything from a 1980’s pattern, but this is closer to the 70’s than 90’s, which is probably why it’s so nice.
This is the pattern picture here with the vintage metal zip that I picked up from the Op Shop for 25c. I’m trying to decide if I sew an exposed metal zip, as it seems fashionable these days or try to hand pick it, which seems to be mentioned a lot in blog land at the mo.
So back to the muslin, so far my modifications are working well. I needed to add 4 inches to the waist – yep, 4 inches!! This is because even though I’m a size 10, I have no waist. Not in an odd looking way, but in a ‘I’ve had three kids’ kinda way. My waist measurement is close to a size 14-16 waist – can you believe? Do I look massively out of proportion? Because the pattern companies seem to think I am. Getting back on track, I also slightly modified the point of the bust where the strap fixes. Being a vintage pattern I guessed it would be too high and it was. Note: this muslin is just for sizing so it doesn’t matter that the bust pleats don’t line up.
So after making this muslin, I plan to further reduce the point where the strap affixes at the front. You might be able to see my pen markings in the above image. I will take the dress in under the arms as it gapes a little, this is pinned in the pictures. I also need to raise the back bodice a little to help hide a small tattoo that I thought was a good idea over a decade ago…..
Now the reason for all this work for a simple sundress, is that I have a very minimal cut of fabric that I’m working with – just one yard to be precise. Here is some tight pattern placing in progress. Only half of the pattern pieces are down there. I’m planning on lining the dress in lawn – simple and light.
The fabric above is Anna Maria Horner pastry line voile in coral, which is actually orange, not a pink coral, which I thought it would be when I bought it. This fabric will really show off the dress style as the bodice is cut on the bias. The bodice will have diagonal stripes, the skirt will have vertical lines and straps horizontal lines. Hopefully it’ll work and I’ll be able to neatly match the fabric…..
Speaking of buying fabric – look what turned up on my door yesterday. I love, love, love it all and better yet they accidentally refunded my postage, so I got 11 yards of fabric with no postage – yay!
I just adore Anna Maria Horner voile (clearly) and am so excited about upcoming projects with these. I can’t afford Liberty, but this is the next best thing I think. So far I’m hoping to make Vogue 1120 with the fabric on the top right. I won this pattern recently from Belinda, but again will need to try to work some re-sizing magic to fit it. I’m also hoping to use the star looking fabric in the middle to make the Collette Chantilly dress, but may need to work some pattern placing magic with this cut and also probably a full bust adjustment, going down of course. Thankfully the lovely Thouraya has offered to lend me the pattern. She made an awesome version earlier this year which is featured on the Collette pattern website. If the muslin doesn’t work out, I won’t be out of pocket.
Lastly, here are some freshly painted walls in my sewing space. It’s so light and bright now and I will never ever miss those awful blue walls and yellow ceiling.